Palmer and beyond

Mirror like conditions along the Antarctic peninsula on the way to Palmer




Seals basking in the sun on a small iceberg

Commersons dolphin playing off the wake of the boat

The Moreno Glacier calves off into Lake Argentina outside the town of El Calafate

An Andean Condor soars in front of the glacier

The Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina moves 6 feet a day and is constantly calving off ice into the bay

A Cara Cara in Argentina

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Palmer Station experiences

Hi Glacier fans,

I’m wrapping up a week at this beautiful place with amazing people, many of whom have clean teeth. I saw 25 folks in the dental corner of the medical office, and everyone left with a smile. In between I got to do some hikes to the face of the glacier, and was rewarded with some spectacular ice crashing into the bay with a thundering sound and a pressure wave generated over the surface. Add to that the hot tub overlooking the whole scene and you get the idea that life isn’t too harsh in this part of the world.

I also enjoyed some rousing ping pong matches with the locals, some of whom were better sports than others. At one point my coveted paddle went missing and in its place was a ransom note, but through some clever negotiations I was able to retrieve it and keep it under wraps until we departed.

Pete the doc was a fast learner and my able bodied assistant, and even graduated with a certificate after successfully placing a filling on a willing participant. He has a few more months to go with his contract, but seems very at home in this close knit community. The rest of us are scheduled to depart in a few short hours for the 5 day trip back to Chile, all the while hoping for some calm seas through the Drake Passage.

Station manager Bob after his successful dental treatment

Hanging out by the glacier waiting for some calving to splash down

Palmer hot tub overlooking the glacier

The brash ice is finally moving away from the base to reveal some open water

Pete the doc gets his dental certificate

Pete and Cody decided to take some revenge out on my ping pong paddle

Sailing south to Palmer Station in Antarctica

The 230 foot research icebreaker Laurence M Gould at the pier in Punta Arenas in southern Chile

Hello Northerners,

      Back in May, I signed up to return to Antarctica with the hope of going to a research station south of Chile called Palmer that has never had a dentist. After patiently waiting a month with no word, I checked in with Jim, the medical director of the Antarctic program, and he glibly said “Oh yeah, you’ve been approved.” After a few months of juggling times and dates it was finally determined that I would be going in late November, and then continue on to McMurdo and the South Pole in January.

       So I packed up to depart the day after Thanksgiving with a turkey leftover sandwich for lunch that afternoon. I had enough time on the layover in Dallas to enjoy some wonderful Texas bar-b-que with my brother, and it held me over for the 9 hour overnight flight to Santiago, Chile. One more flight south to Punta Arenas brought me close to the bottom of South America, and from there I met some fellow passengers on the ship that would take us further south. They call the journey a “cruise”, but with the prospect of high rolling, stormy waves it’s no picnic on the high seas. We were relatively lucky with the multi day crossing of the Drake Passage, and we arrived at Palmer station after a 2 day stop to unload cargo for a field camp that left 5 souls behind to enjoy the peace and quiet of a remote island in the Antarctic peninsula.

      We also got to see some science along the way, like the deployment of some gliders that are really mini subs that collect data for a number of months while they scoot round under the ice. The food has been amazing and it’s easy to put ion a few pounds, so walking around on the deck is a good idea when the weather is nice.

Once we arrived at the station, the ship was secured sturdy enough to dampen the usual pitching and rolling, and since we are considered “turn around” passengers, we still sleep on board for the week we are at the pier. I spent a few hours setting up the dental equipment, and by the next day I was open for business with a waiting list of folks happy to get a free check-up and cleaning.

A submersible glider is prepped for a 3 month project of data collection

The bunk bed makes up the bulk of the state room aboard the Gould

Ashore on Livingston Island to unload supplies for Camp Sherriff

A gentoo penguin came strolling out of the ocean to see what all the activity was

A few chin strap penguins join the gentoos ashore on Livingston Island

An Antartic fur seal checks out the activity on Livingston Island

A hundred foot tall half pipe shaped iceberg on the way to Palmer

Calm water, bergy bits, and penguins and whales along the route

Welcome sign at Palmer next to the boat ramp

Palmer Station from the pier